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What is My Hair Type

March 01, 2021

What is My Hair Type

What is My Hair Type

So you want to be young, wild and knot free?

There are so many different areas of hair all over the human body, with our head hair alone having countless variations from person to person.

Discovering exactly what type of hair you have allows you to care for it properly, and for your hair to live its best life. Hair types can be simplified into a categorical system. And the most universally commonly used system was created by Andre Walker A.K.A Oprah's Hair Guru, and is used throughout the world to identify hair types. 

Hair identification systems aren't all inclusive, but hair isn't always contained to one type either. For example, the top of your neck may have different hair than the top of your face.

Hair is so unique that even though the identification system is constantly being expanded and developed, it is still just a guideline to help you or your therapist understand what products, treatment and care is needed for the optimal health of your hair.

Your hair type is a combination of density, diameter, porosity, oiliness, elasticity, moisture and curl pattern. 

TEXTURE

Texture refers to the natural pattern of your hair. Wash it and let it dry to evaluate your true texture.

If it's straight, you'll be a type 1 (straight)

If it's with a slight S shape in it, it's a type 2 (wavy)

If it has an obvious continuous curl pattern, it's a type 3 (curly)

And if there are tight curls or zig zag patterns, you're a type 4 (coily)

 

STRUCTURE

This is determined by the thickness of your individual strands. Get a single strand of loose hair and a piece of sewing thread and lay them down on a flat surface. 

Your structure is broadly speaking either;

Fine - if your hair strand is thinner than the thread. It 

Medium - if your hair is a similar size to the thread. It's easy to style and will hold for a long time period.

Coarse -  if your hair is thicker than the thread. It's holds curls but can be hard to style due to lack of suppleness.

 

POROSITY

This is how well your hair absorbs moisture and hair products. Place your hair in a bowl of water. You can determine your level of porosity by seeing if;

High (absorbs moisture well) - it sinks to the bottom

Normal - if it's below the surface but doesn't sit at the bottom

Low (doesn't absorb moisture well) - if it sits above the water surface

 

SCALP MOISTURE

To determine whether your scalp is dry or oily or a little bit of both, look at your hair 2 days post wash. What do your roots look like?

Flat and greasy - oily scalp in need of oil reductant or sebum increase

Flaky - dry scalp in need of a gentle hydrating shampoo

Greasy and Flaky - normally due to product and oil building up with improper/infrequent washing. It's in need of an oil reductant and a soothing treatment/product.

 

WALKERS SYSTEM

Andre Walker's system uses letters and numbers to categorise the hair.

Numbers identifying the curl shape;

1. Straight
2. Wavy
3. Curly
4. Coily

    And the letters identifying the width of the hair pattern;

    A. Wide
    B. Medium
    C. Tight

     

    TYPE 1 - STRAIGHT

     

    1A - Fine, soft and easy to style - most styling products will work, only needs a small amount

    1B - Medium thick, pretty manageable - reacts well to products and will do pretty much anything

    1C - Coarse, very difficult to style and shape - a bit more effort and strength from products is needed to hold styles

     

    TYPE 2 - WAVY

     

    2A - Fine waves, easy to straighten - Easily weighed down by products creating low volume. Reacts well to small amounts of water-based product

    2B - Defined S shapes, starting near mid length of hair - Can be difficult to straighten, texture sprays are great enhancers

    2C - Coarse, well defined S bends starting near root - Tendency to frizz means attention to scalp moisture is perfect. Conditioning products are great for 2C hair

     

    TYPE 3 - CURLY

     

    3A - Large, loose, glossy curls, responds well to scrunch styling - Easy to maintain, low porosity and smooth, reacts well to misting throughout the day

    3B - Tight springy ringlets, easily dries out due to cuticle splaying on curves - humectants on damp hair are perfect for 3B types.

    3C - Tight corkscrew curls, lots of natural volume - Tendency to frizz. Great for co-washing (wash with conditioner only), creamy cleansers and a moisturising style cream

      

    TYPE 4 - COILY 

    4A Dense, springy S shapes - needs moisture, reacts well to curl creams and leave in moisturisers

    4B Densely packed, sharp Z shapes - Perfect for use with balms to roll out the curls into defined shapes

    4C Fragile, very tight zig zag pattern causing shrinkage - Generous amounts of leave in moisturiser and regular use of oils will keep 4C hair hydrated and sealed

     

    So what's your hair type?

    Finding your hair type is the first step to hair care. You wouldn't buy foundation without matching it to your skin, or a pet without knowing what it needs, so understanding your hair, allows you to look after it. Now go and let your hair down, and feel young, wild and knot free.


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